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About Floor
Besides the traditional floor coverings used in the past, there are now many new styles and materials of flooring to choose from that can definitely define a room’s style. Because of today’s modern technology, many manufacturers are coming up with great new synthetic flooring that not only looks good, but is also durable and low-maintenance—a definite plus for those who are always on the go but want stylish floor coverings. Besides that, many of the new synthetic coverings are easy on your bank account as well!
Even though synthetic flooring is a great alternative, many people still crave the look and feel of all-natural floor coverings such as stone or wood. For some reason, there always seems to be something about “natural” that nothing synthetic materials can acquire. In many flooring plans, wood brings a great deal of atmosphere and surrounding to a room and makes it feel just so much “roomier” and “natural”.
When you are deciding on what type of flooring is right for you and your home, the first step to making sure it’s really right for you is to question AND answer those questions with complete honesty. Keep in mind that the flooring you choose is not only right for your stylish tastes, but also for your lifestyle and finances. The flooring you choose should be suitable for every aspect of your circumstances, as you would not want to regret upon a floor covering you spent too much on or one that you could’ve spent more on.
For natural flooring plans, wood has been a long-time winner with many homeowners due to its lasting nature. Not only does it add a natural kind of warmth and hominess atmosphere to a room, it’s also quite “elastic” and can cope well with structural movements that are common in older homes as well as heavy trafficking in a family area. Wood floors, however, need a lot more attention and caring compared to other flooring alternatives. Wood floors aren’t also recommended if you live in an area that’s usually damp or if you live in an area prone to flooding, as wood isn’t easily maintained in a moist environment. In such a case, you would definitely not want to keep the expense of installing new hardwood floors every so often to keep up with the damage that moisture and floods can cause to these natural floor coverings.
BASICS
These
days, anyone and everyone to be installing hardwood flooring. It’s
very frustrating as a consumer to gain any real information as to
the pros and cons of each of the different types that are available
laminated, solid, engineered since everyone seems
to be saying something different. It is the goal of this website to
help in sorting this information and increasing customer awareness.
First, lets address the difference between hardness and durability
of different types of wood. This is the area that people have the
most difficulty understanding. The following chart contains species
of wood showing their respective hardness listed from softest to hardest.
| Black
Cherry |
|
|
950 |
| Black
Walnut |
|
|
1010 |
| Yellow
Birch |
|
|
1260 |
| Red
Oak |
|
|
1290 |
| American
Beech |
|
|
1300 |
| White
Ash |
|
|
1320 |
| Hard
Maple |
|
|
1450 |
| PurpleHeart |
|
|
1860 |
| Santos
Mahogany |
|
|
2200 |
| Brazilian
Cherry |
|
|
2359 |
Notice
that out of the species shown Black Cherry is the softest and Brazilian
Cherry is the hardness. It seems simple but if you use only hardness
as your guide to durability, you will come to the conclusion that
Brazilian Cherry is the harder, therefore more durable than Black
Cherry. Wrong! The hardness of wood only has to do with how much
denting will occur, not durability.
WEBSTER’S
dictionary defines durability as: able to exist
for a long time without significant deterioration.
Technically,
deterioration of a hardwood floor can solely occur if the surface
of the floor is wearing down – the finish, not the wood itself.
Dents, scratches and similar types of abuse are not relevant when
it comes to durability. The more durable a floor is the longer than
finish will last before requiring a re-coat. Meaning, it will take
more abuse before it really begins to look abused.
The
real question that one should ask is how much will the floor dent,
not if the floor will dent. See the problem that most people have
is because of the new finishes available, most of them include Aluminum
Oxide (or some variant thereof) they all now feel that the floor
will be indestructible. Unfortunately, these misconceptions are
being encouraged by some of the companies involved, but in the end
the flooring that we use is wood, and wood dents. Therefore no matter
whether it’s Brazilian Cherry or Black Cherry – they
will all dent and they will all scratch.
If
that’s not enough, the different grains of wood will show
the dents to different degrees. The “closed grain” hardwoods
– usually Maple, Birch, Beech have such a subtle grain, that
they will show more than the “open grained” hardwoods.
Now, the “open grain” hardwoods – Oak and Ash,
might be a little softer than say Maple, Birch or Beech but since
they have such wild grains, the dents will show less. See the chart.
Hard
Maple |
Yellow
Birch |
Beech |
Red
Oak
|
Yellow
Ash
|
Basically,
what we're saying is that even though the Hard Maple is 12% harder
than Red Oak, since the maple is a closed grain wood, while the
oak is an open grained product, they will show marking and denting
very differently. Not something to be scared of, simply aware
of. It all comes back to what I've read all above - wood dents.
Wood is living product. We consider this to be true because even
though the tree has been cut down, it still maintains a cellular
structure that is affected by moisture. The moisture to affect
the wood could be in the air, the ground, or even our sweat. Different
species of wood move more or less because of moisture. This chart
shows species from most affected to least.
| American
Beech |
|
|
.00431 |
| Red
Oak |
|
|
.00369 |
| Hard
Maple |
|
|
.00353 |
| Yellow
Birch |
|
|
.00338 |
| Brazilian
Cherry |
|
|
.00300 |
| White
Ash |
|
|
.00274 |
| Black
Walnut |
|
|
.00274 |
| Black
Cherry |
|
|
.00248 |
| Santos
Mahogany |
|
|
.00238 |
| PurpleHeart |
|
|
.00212 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The numbers themselves don't mean much to the end user of wood flooring,
but basically what the chart is saying, is that a floor made with
American Beech will have more movement than a floor made with Purple
Heart. By movement, we mean that if the air gets too dry the boards
will shrink, and you will notice gaps between the boards. If there
is too much moisture in the air, the boards will cup and the edges
will be raised.
To minimize the extremes of moisture in our homes use humidifiers
and de-humidifiers, but it will only minimize what will naturally
happen. In the winters, since our heaters are draining the air of
all moisture, the floors will shrink slightly. In the summers, when
there is a lot of moisture in the air, the floors will expand back
to their original shape.
That covers the more basic points that all consumers should be aware
of prior to investing in a new wood floor - Hardness, Durability,
and Stability. In the end, no wood is superior to another;
it is really a personal choice, as long as the consumer has been
informed of their wood's characteristics.
We are now ready examine the different types of hardwood that are
available. There are pros and cons to each of the different types,
let's look at them right now.
MOISTURE
Advances
in wood flooring during the past few years mean that you now can
have wood flooring anywhere in your home or business. Where you
want put it, however, will determine the type wood flooring you
can use.
Water
In Wood
The living tree uses water as the medium to convey food between
the roots and the leaves. The living tree, therefore, contains large
amounts of water. For every 1 pound of wet, living wood, about 55
to 60 percent is dry wood (that is, cells) and 40 to 45 percent
is water. Some of this water is contained in the cell lumen and
some is contained within the cell wall itself. Water in the lumen
is called free water while water in the walls is called bound water.
These terms arise because the free water is not held chemically
within the cell, while the bound water is held by hydrogen bonding.
Free water evaporates as easily as water from a tea kettle; however,
bound water requires a little extra energy for evaporation. Further,
and most importantly, when the bound water leaves the cell walls,
the cells shrink.
GAPS
IN HARDWOOD FLOORS
The beginning of October, customers start calling us up and asking,
" Gee, the beautiful hardwood floors you guys installed for
us last summer now have some gaps between the boards, how come??"Usually
I begin by saying, " You ain't seen nothin' yet." As winter
progresses the gaps can widen if left unchecked. Let's take a look
back to the summer when the installation took place. Around Chicago
land, the relative humidity stays up around 80%-90% from June through
Sept. This means the lumber gets delivered to the job-site with
a moisture content of about 9%. The floor is then installed and
the boards are nailed tight to one another so there are no gaps
between the boards. Everything is hunky-dory until October the relative
humidity drops like a rock, suddenly overnight, down to a nice comfortable
50%-40% or less. As fall and winter progress we begin to turn on
the heat. Now we're really drying out the lumber. The 9% moisture
content drops 30% to 6%. The individual boards begin to shrink in
width. Gaps open up. Oh my! Call that *&$#@!&^%$#@! floor
guy and yell and scream blah, blah.:') " This is normal."
The wood expands and contracts with the seasons. Floors, trim, all
the wood moves." For most customers, at this end of the 20th
century, don't give a hoot about my little nature talk and want
a solution to the problem of the gaps. The answer is usually found
in adding a humidifier to the heating system, which keeps the humidity
of the house at 45% during the heating season. This adds moisture
back into the atmosphere of the house, bringing the moisture content
of the floorboards back up to around 8%. does the trick 99% of the
time. Sometimes even a child's cold mist humidifier is enough in
a small area to solve the gapping problem. A humidifier added to
the home heating system runs about $400 and is said to be good for
the people in the house as well as the floors.
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